Volkswagen Schwimmwagen

Step 1: The instructions provided to assemble the front suspension. 

Parts provided (X1 x 2+L L2+L R2+MA7+MA8+MA4 x 2+23 x 2+M20+MA2+K4) to assemble the front suspension. 

Parts provided (L L2+L R2+MA7+MA8+MA4 x 2)to assemble the wheel hubs. After cleaning up the ejector pin marks on the wheel hubs, part LL2 and LR2, attach, part MA7 and MA8 using the two screws, part MA4. At the bottom is the completed wheel hubs. Secure the screws with a dab of super glue. 

The front wheel hubs (L L2+L R2+MA4+MA7+MA8) attached to the wheels (X1 x 2). The front wheel hub’s retaining nubs needed considerable trimming to fit the rims and allow itself again to be disassembled for painting. At the bottom is the rims (X1) with the hubs inserted. Do not use glue to secure the hubs to the rims. I also encircled damage done by heat to the wheels while the model has been in storage for about fifteen years. This damage will be repaired later on. 

Wheel hubs secured to the front suspension (K4). Note that the mounting points for the tie-rod is on the top. 

Fitting the tie-rod to the suspension require part MA2 and two retaining "nuts", part M22 and M23. These retaining parts (M23) for the tie rod (MA2) is secured in place using a dab of super-glue. 

The rack part of the rack and pinion mechanism (M20) was clipped in place on the flat part of the tie rod (MA2). No glue has been used securing the steering rack. 

Step 2: The instructions provided for seating front suspension and back suspension. 

The parts provided (A+X2 x 2+MA1+16 x 2+L L1+L R1) to assemble the back suspension. 

Using the actual metal axel (MA1) provided with the kit, dry fitting the parts. Note the spacer (part of part 16) that is merely there to ensure maintaining a uniform distance from the body tub. It was sawed off after the swing arms set in place. On the right-hand side both the swing arms after being glued in place. Tacked into place using tape. Note, there is no locating tabs or guidance other than a blurry and partial photograph showing the location of the parts. Using the bottom of the tub, swing arms, wheel hubs, axel and using your eyes is the only way I could find to orientate the parts. 

The axel (MA1) and wheel hubs (L L1+L R1) dry fitted. 

Parts provided (C+Step 1) to attach the front suspension to the tub. 

To attach the front suspension at the proper height, first glue the suspension assembly to the front protection plate (C). The large locating stubs (yellow arrow) were very loose fitting in the body tub (A). This was done by using this locating holes and pins (orange arrows). 

Pre-shading done with NATO black and IJN grey. 

Front suspension glued into place. 

Step 3: The instructions provided to assemble the interior of the body tub. 

Parts provided (T+Z+B) to build up the interior panels and basic fittings. The plastic representation of the wooden floorboarding (B) in the floorplan will be replaced with real wood. 

Locating pins and holes in the body tub (A) and at the bottom of the bottom panel at the back of the cabin (T). 

Dry fitting the bottom panel (T) of the back bulkhead into the body tub (A). 

Securing the photo etch grill (MA6) with super-glue to the frame (45). 

The rear bulkhead (Z+45+MA6) in position on the back seat platform (T). Epoxy was used to secure the grill on the rear bulkhead to the floor section of the back seat platform. All the major components being dry fitted. Note the locating holes for the backseats indicated with the orange circles. 

After hacking off the simulated wooden floorboard panels using a chisel blade, the side walls and centre console of the floor pan was cleaned up. The sides of the original floor pan (B) with glue into place in an effort accurately lay the centre gear tunnel down. The locating positions were crudely removed. Plastic tubing is used to re-create locating positions (orange ellipse). Dry fitting the centre console. Now the fabrication of the wooden floor boards can start. There is no turning back now. 

Before gluing the floor panels (B) to the tub, the side walls and centre gear tunnel was glued to the to the rear bulkhead (T+Z+45+MA6). This will eliminate gaps between the floor panels and rear bulkhead. For extra strength, epoxy was used. 

The floorboards in a 1:1 which I will try to emulate by replacing the plastic version with a replacement made from wood. 

Replacing the floorboards are taking shape. 

The completed replacement floorboards. 

The bottom of the floorboards, where the seats will be inserted were reinforced by gluing in the original plastic sections using epoxy. 

I was not happy with my first attempt in scratch building the wooden floorboards. On the righthand side is my second attempt. I used pins to imitate the bolts. 

The instructions provided to complete positioning the operating levers. 

The foot pedals encircled. 

The parts provided to assemble the pedals (1+12+29). Judging by its orientation, it is clear that the position of the brake and clutch pedals are not correct. 

Positioning the clutch and brake pedals (1 x 2+12) horizontal. There are no locating holes/marks/indicators in the body tub (A). 

The gear levers and handbrake encircled. 

The parts provided for the gear levers (Y53+Y54+L4+Y58) and handbrake (L3). Y58 is erroneously indicated as 24 as on the instruction sheet. 

Following the instructions had me attaching the handbrake (L3) in the wrong location. The obvious location hole in the floorboard (B) does not allow for the part to fit without modifying the part extensively. Replacing the plastic wooden boards provide the solution to relocate the handbrake. 

To relocate the handbrake (L3) to a more realistic/accurate position, a small block was fabricated into which the handbrake can be glued. 

 

The final result. 

The instructions provided for building up the front and back seats. 

Parts provided (71+73+W3 x 2+G x 2) to assemble the front seats. 

There are no positive locating tabs to assemble the bottom (W3) and backrest (G) part of the seats. The seat supports (71/73) have positive tabs and location holes. 

The instructions provided to assemble the steering mechanism. 

Parts provided to build up the steering mechanism (49+51+S32+M19+L18). Part number “R” is an insert that will be inserted between the body tub (A) and the body top 👎. 

The instructions provided. Note that part number “R” in the background appearing in place as if by magic. 

The elusive part number “R” which is a spacer between the body tub (A) and the body top 👎. Note the ejection marks that had to be addressed. 

The parts provided for the steering mechanism dry-fitted in place. 

These two nubs (orange ellipse) prevent the engine bay to sit deep enough and have to be removed. Should it be an error, the two nubs can easily be replicated again. 

Glued the engine bay (F) into position. No engine detail is provided. The boot/engine/bonnet (E) cover is dry fitted. 

All interior parts primed and ready for paint. 

The instructions provided to assemble the exterior of the body tub. 

Parts provided (30+31+5 x 2+6 x 2+7 x 2) to assemble the exterior hooks and its brackets. 

The sequence for assembling the exterior hooks and its brackets. By using glue to secure 5(5); 6(6) to 30/31 only, the hooks will be left to swivel freely. Both the hook assemblies completed and ready for installation on the lower tub. 

This reference photograph shows that the pins, part 5 and 6 are not flush with the brackets part 30 and 31. 

There are no location tabs/holes. Use eyeball mark 1 and reference pictures to glue the parts in their respective locations. 

The instructions provided to show the drainage pipes. 

The parts (23 x 2) provided and the location for the drainage pipes. 

Using a toothpick, I held the drain pipe in place until the glue has set. 

The instructions provided to assemble the propeller. 

The real item. I saw this lifting hook on several reference photographs. This is nowhere to be observed in the instructions. The closest I could find in the box was part number 72. The sprue map also does not indicate part 72 as superfluous. 

The parts (8+17+26+28+41+50+65 x 6+68+69+75+M19) provided to assemble the propeller system. 

Part M19, not indicate on the instructions. 

Using a pin-vice, I drilled out holes where the cover (8) is attached to the shroud (50) to insert the bolt heads (65 x 6) provided. The position as indicated on the instructions are wrong. Again, there was no indication for the location and I had to revert to the instructions. 

The propeller mounting (26) sat very loose in the swivel mountings (67). Using plastic card, I glued in a shim to improve the fit. 

The propeller (41) sat too deep in the mechanism (17+28). I decided to take a piece of sprue to fabricate an extension to the propeller shaft. 

In placing this backplate (75), I was guided mostly by eyeball mark one and the basic shape of the part. The is no locating marks/pins provided. The swivel mounting (66) for the propeller can be identified by its larger locating nub. The locating hole (see orange circle) for the other swivel mounting (67) is notably smaller. 

The instructions provided. 

The parts (5+6+7) provided to assemble the front tow hook.  

The same process was followed as with the hooks at the back. Also note that I have maintained a slight gap between the hinge and the body tub as taken from the reference photograph used for the hooks at the back of the tub. 

The exterior of the tub primed, ready for pre-shading and painting. 

The propeller assembly primed and ready for painting. 

Step 4: The instructions provided to assemble the interior of the body top, fuel tanks with plumbing, the instrument cluster and toolkit.  

The parts (N+10+15+74+76+82+83+84+85) required to assemble the interior of the top.  

The top showing the attachment points for the fuel cells and the instrument panel. 

The right-hand fuel tank. 

 

The left-hand fuel tank. 

 

 

Fuel tanks and pipes installed. 

The instrument panel (76). 

This container’s (74) purpose is not known. Perhaps a first-aid kit or a toolkit. Note the location tabs (orange circles). 

The interior completed. 

The interior primed and ready for paint. 

The instructions provided to attach the parts to the top of the body. 

 

A line drawing that will also be used as a reference. Research material is indispensable, especially when instructions are vague or not complete. 

Parts provided (9+18+19+20+21 x 2+22 x 2+27+35+40+42+55 x 2+56 x 2+59+ 61 x 2+64 x 2+66+67+78 x 2+A3+A4 x 2+A6+J3 x 2+L5+L10+L11+L12+L19+L20+M11+W2) for the exterior on the forward part of the top of the body. Lots and lots of clean-up required. Some flash, a lot of seamlines, ejection pin marks, large sprue gates/attachment points and in general crude parts due to scale had to be addressed. Also note that part 9 on the sprue is mis numbered in the instructions. In all cases I have used the sprue numbering as the true standard. 

Hollowed out the exhaust ends using a pin-vice and progressively larger drill bits. On the right is the “before” and on the left is the “after”. 

Cleaned up and subassemblies completed. The tool hinges were left operable. The fit in general is good. 

Working from the front towards the rear of the Schwimmer. The instructions are very vague and the placement of certain parts are not called for but can be identified in photographs. I therefore eliminate parts from the sprue trees as I move along add/relocate additional parts. 

A dab of silver paint to the inside of the light (L10+L11). I agree that not much will be visible through the slits once the lenses will be painted, but full steam ahead! 

No need to address the ejection marks/stubs because they are on the inside and the lenses (J3 x 2) will be painted. 

Copper wire is inserted to simulate the actual wiring. The hooter (L5) had a void at its back. A superfluous part (L15) which was sanded to fit was glued into the back to cover the hole and make it a little more visually pleasing. 

Ensuring that the headlights do not sit too deep, the hight was adjusted using plastic sheet. 

On my references (see the line drawing), a NOTEK lamp can be seen. It is however omitted on the instructions. I found a NOTAK light (L7+L8) on a sprue. I think that this model shares sprues with Dragon’s scale 1:6 Kubelwagen. 

Rather than scratch building a post for the NOTAK light, a suitable part (62) was found on the sprue tree amongst the superfluous parts. 

There are no locating holes or marks for the bumper 👍. Holes were drilled into the mudguards using the bumper in combination of reference photographs. 

Concentrating now on the centre section of the body top. 

The parts provided (18+36 x 2+37+39 x 2+40+42+46+47+48 x 2+55 x 2+56 x 2+61 x 2+N5) to install in the centre section/waist. 

Lots of seamlines had to be addressed. The roof tent frame was assembled (36 x 2+37+46+47+48 x 2) and two side bars (33+38 that will be installed between the front and back mudguard. 

The parts provided (55 x 2+56 x 2+61 x 2) allows for assembling two workable tool clamps. 

The parts provided (55+56+61+M11+N5) allows for assembling the tool clamp for the spade. 

A reference photograph that provides guidance with regards to the placing of the tool clamps for the spade. There are no location marks/tabs. 

A pilot hole has been drilled for the spade holder (M11). This hole will be slowly enlarged to accept the tab.  

There are no locating holes/marks for the tool clamps (56 x 2) and spade holder (M11). There are locating holes for the side bar (33/38), however the tabs can fit only one hole and you are left to drill out a second hole. The furthermost tool clamp on the left has been positioned after fitting the spade into part M11. The same goes for the tool clamp on the right was glued into position after the rowing paddle was fitted into part 42. 

The instructions provided. 

The area at the back. 

The parts provided (19+20+27+35+40+42+M1 x 2+M2 x 2+MA5 x 2) for building up the components. The exhaust has been painted with burnt exhaust. 

Securing the engine grills (MA5 x 2) in place using two-part clear epoxy. 

A piece of reinforcing was removed from the back side of the back light/number plate holder (42). In its place I will simulating the wiring to the brake light. 

All the parts fitted. 

Part 27, that is some sort antenna or light machine gun mounting, has been carefully drilled out to add some realism. 

A detail omitted from the model is the loops through which the canvas roof is secured to the body. On the M sprue 13 x loops (M21) have been identified. The parts are shown as superfluous. 

The parts were interspaced at measured intervals. 

The instructions provided to assemble the engine bonnet. 

Assembling the hinges for the engine bonnet (M1 x 2+M2 x 2+MA3 x 2). Not using glue allow for the hinges to be fully functional. 

The hinges glued to the bonnet. 

The latches x 4 is made up by the following parts (70 x 4+77 x 4+79 x 4+81 x 4) which are provided. 

The hooks (79 x 4) for the latches glued into position. 

The part of the hinges (77 x 2) which is attached to the body tub (A) is encircled. There is no location holes or marks. The hinges were assembled and hung from the part 79 which then allowed for accurately placing and gluing 77 x 2 to the body tub. 

The part of the hinges (77 x 2) which is attached to the body top 👎 is encircled. There is no location holes or marks. The hinges were assembled and hung from the part 79 which then allowed for accurately placing and gluing 77 x 2 to the body top. 

The bonnet lifting handle and buckle for the propeller retaining strap. There are no locating holes or marks for these parts. 

The interior parts painted after consulting reference photographs. 

The interior of the body top painted although not much will be seen after the two halves will be glued together. 

A base coat of German grey has been applied to cover the primer coat. 

A base coat of Neutral grey has been applied to cover the base coat of German gey. A coat of Sky grey will follow as soon as all the imperfections have been addressed. 

Using a reference photograph, I have added some details to an otherwise blank canvas. 

Step 5: The instructions provided to identify the difference between the different wheels. 

Front wheels X1 x 2. It has a larger cone on the hub. 

Back wheels X2 x 2. It has a smaller cone on the hub. 

Spare wheel X3 x 1. The rim has two locating pins to attach the wheel to the body. 

There was a chemical reaction between the rubber and the plastic used in the rims. This effected only certain parts of the plastic and not the rubber at all. The affected areas never solidified and retained a putty-like character. 

I first tried clamps to return the rubber tyres to its original shape. 

Using a chisel, removed the affected areas in totality. 

Using sheet styrene and plastic rod the rims were restored. 

I primed the rims and rubber in an effort to prevent decay. 

Base coat applied. 

Clear coat applied. 

Dust coat applied. 

Clamping the body top to the tub. 

While fitting the interior parts, I realized that the steering wheel is way too close to the driver's seat back and would not allow the driver to sit on the driver's seat. I removed 30mm off the steering column, and it now seems to be more realistic. 

Painting and assembly completed. Thankfully all the parts were still there. Now for weathering and completing the tools. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 6: Pioneer tools supplied with the kit. A shovel and an aor. The plan is to replace both with scratch build items. 

I traced the shovel’s head in case I damage the plastic item. 

Removed the shaft of the shovel, hollowing out the socket and thinning the plastic drastically. 

The replacement shaft fashioned from a wooden del. 

I used Tamiya NATO black as a primer and Black Gloss as a base coat. 

Shovel completed. 

The numberplate was repainted to be more accurate to have black letters/numbers on a white background. A numberplate for the front of the vehicle was scratch build. Front and back numbers and letters supplied with the kit were used. This number was taken from a vehicle used by the Commander and Chief of the 17th Army Headquarters. 

The oar was painted a base coat of Tamiya Dark Yellow XF60. This will be painted over with oils to simulate the wood grain. 

A layer of oil paint. 

Using a piece of sponge, I “drew” the wood grain.