Kaman SH-2F Seasprite

 

 

 

 

 

 

In my opinion it is not useful to use the 2 large etched parts for aft decking.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

Right seat to high, left seat OK. 

 

A piece of plastic for correct placement of instrumentpanel. 

 

 

The doors are very fine detailed. I add only new grips from wire and few plasticparts for the bumpers. 

Clear navigations ligts will be add later (replacment for kit parts from grey plastic). 

Hinges for the panels from wire and its isolation. The detail behind the bulge will be remove: it is missing on "SH-2F" 

No putty despite of average fit: superglue and plastic is my way to fill gaps. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Die Verglasung besteht aus drei Teilen. Die Seitenteile haben auf der Innenseite "Laschen", die von außen leider sichtbar sind. Das könnte man kaschieren, in dem man die Scheibe nicht komplett abklebt, sondern einen Rand lässt (wie im Bild). 

So ist aber der Rahmen zwischen der Seitenscheibe und der Frontscheibe doppelt so breit wie er sein sollte.... Was ist dass kleinere Übel? Das ist hier die Frage! 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Masking with post'its for aluminum.  

 

 

Base coat is done. Washing of the entire radome with grey brown: coming soon. 

It is very stunning! I believe that there are no two identical Seasprites. When I was masking for blue I noticed that 151912 has a narrow aerial on the lower side and cut off the kit part (just the base is left = grey square area on yellow ground).  

Middle grey is the right color for the gearbox housing. 

Tamiya tape as masking for engine grey. 

Do the clear parts fit? This question will be answered in a few minutes... 

Tamiya tape is the best! Sharp and clear edges between yellow and engine grey🙂 

Yippie!!! All clear parts fits perfectly. The roof correction it worked.  

The basis were the decals from Caracal decals (white lines around the antiskid panels). After masking all the white areas I airbrushed a thick coat with unthinned paint (Humbrol) with very low pressure (0,7 bar). For 2nd part of text read/see next pic. 

Approx. 5 min later I pressed 1500 micro mesh into the still wet paint and produced an uneven surface. This looks in my opinion very similar to the anti skid areas. 

This is what the MAD-detector looks like in most cases (1 and 2) and in 48 times smaller (3). Only one day (one day!!) after airbrushing I received a picture of the #1912 (this is the heli I want to build) from a modeling mate… arrrrrrghh! 

Which color does the windows framing have? Engine grey or black? Neither nor! Middle grey (metal??)! I have to do something about this.  

 

Decals from Caracal decals are excellent quality and better than decals from the kit.  

"Self made" antiskid - areas. 

Engine grey (FSx6081, top right) is an bluish/greenish grey, and not an neutral grey like x6008 (top left).  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nearly 3 hours of work were needed for ground contact of all four wheels.  

The tail wheel is mounted in a right angle to the lower fuselage, not to the ground.  

 

Mirror and black paint for mirror-supportarm coming soon.  

It's very interesting: the MAD-probe & aux tank are in line with the flight direction, not in line with the fuselage  

A seldom pic from the BSH-workbench 🙂. The wire on both side if support strut are still to long... 

 

 

Too bad that the mirror-look foil on the mirror it is not clearly visible🙁 

It was a true chalenge to apply the decals in the struts..... 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The tail rotor is designed very well. In my opinion the axle of the x shaped actuator is too short and must be lengthened. A few added discs from different plastic rods and the work is done.  

 

The kit offers a rotor head with blades in the flat position (0 degree). On the most pictures it is clearly visible that the rotor blades have an angle (thx for this hint Felix). Because of that I decided to reposition the blades. 

 

 

 

 

On the inner side of original heli a diagonal support strut is clearly visible.  

 

Original Seasprite has complicated linkage for the flaps, in comparison with other rotor designs. 

Unfortunately the hinges of the kit are symmetrical to the cut out in the blade. Flaps of the original heli are rectangular not trapezoid.... 

The next step: the tail rotor. The were also machines with one, thee or all grey blades. 

After building the Seabat, I get a comment from a mate "the hook is clumsy" (quite rightly so🙂 Now I wanted to evade such a comment and "clobbered" the next thing together from 6 etched parts🙂 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Have a gone crazy? 2x13 parts for a pair of scissors-dampers per each blade? It wasn't that bad: just 15-20 minutes... 

 

I'm very glad that the Seasprite has only 4 blades-🙂 For example the Superstallion has 7 blades...(argh) 

The topplate is mounted diagonally (not at right angles) in relation to the blades. 

On the top the main cable split and supplies the 4 boxes with 4 separate cables. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The chefdesigner of this mechanic was in my opinion a true genius...