The chassis and front suspension. All the components were painted using Tamiya X-1 Black Gloss. The center part on part 24B was painted in A.MIG-197 Metal Acrylic Color – Brass.
Note an error in the instructions: Step 5, the leave springs should be swopped 180° around. If not, the mistake will become apparent in step 8 when you try to join the front suspension to the chassis.
Heating the flat tip of a screw driver, the tips of part 18E and 19E was melted to form a mushroom after installing the tie rod, part 233E. Ensure free movement.
Note the specific order of assembling the shock absorbers in steps 6 and 7. Attaching the front suspension and steering box to the chassis.
All the components were painted using Tamiya X-1 Black Gloss.
Assembling the rear suspension (R). All the components were painted using Tamiya X-1 Black Gloss. I picked out the top ends of the shock absorbers with Model Master Chrome Silver FS17178.
Assembling the rear suspension (L). There is a mistake in the colour callout in step 15 and to a lesser account step 12. Looking at my reference photographs, I elected to paint all components Tamiya X-1 Gloss black. I picked out the top ends of the shock absorbers with Model Master Chrome Silver FS17178.
Attaching the gearshift, rear suspension (L and R) and differential components to the chassis. All the components were painted using Tamiya X-1 Black Gloss. Part 99F was left in chrome. The knob at the end of part 140E was painted in Metal Acrylic Color - Polished Metal A.MIG-192.
To capture the instrument panel best, I numbered the dials and allocated colours to it as dictated by thee reference photos. The backsides of all the dials were painted Tamiya X-1 Black gloss. The black speck seen on the instrument panel is part 133E. On the colour callout it is supposed to be painted E, Flat wood. My reference photos showed the switch to be black.
The coachwork was fitted to the chassis. The coachwork was painted using Mr. COLOR, No 158 Super Italian Red. The inside of the coachwork was painted using Tamiya, TS-17 Gloss Aluminium. The decals laid down without problems. To make it conform to uneven surfaces Micro Sol And Micro Set was employed.
Engine block, cylinder heads, pressure plate, valves and water pump.
Note that there is no callout for part 107G x 4, 108G and 110G, the parts were painted Flat Steel.
I ignored the colour callouts for the cylinder sleeves, the bottoms of the valve springs and water pump substituting flat-black for semi-gloss black.
The components that were directed by the paint callout to be painted Flat Black were painted in Semi-Gloss Black. The rest of the parts were painted in the colours as directed.
The plumbing installed. It is better to install the piping piece by piece, starting from the top. The final “tube” leading to the oil tank beneath the cabin’s floor board will be installed once the engine has been installed.
Again, I cleaned the parts before committing the parts to a blank piece of paper to assist in simplifying the painting process of the multitude of parts.
After looking at reference photographs, I deviated from the instructions by replacing the “C” type transparent Ø0.7mm tube with the “E” type black Ø0.7mm tube and replacing the type “D” type yellow electric wire Ø0.7mm with Tamiya Detail-Up Parts Series 12676 Cable, Ø0.65mm outer diameter (black). This gives a more realistic look. 24 Parts were made up.
The same went for the wiring from leading from the distributer caps (109G x 4).
To accurately determine the exact lengths of the pipe, Ǿ5mm black PVC tube connecting part (70H, 72H and 71H, 73H) to first glue the assemblies onto the cylinder sleeves. I found that the interconnecting pipe should be closer to 6mm than the 5mm demanded by the instructions.
Connecting part 67H, the pipe was straight forward. Where the part is glued to the engine block need some manoeuvring. The decals laid down well and have very little carrier film. I used Micro Sol and Set after which it was sealed in with clear gloss.
Looking at reference photograph, the fuel lines dangling down vertically was shortened from 18mm as is seen on the lefthand side and also directed in the instructions to 12mm as is seen on the righthand side.
The decals laid down well and have very little carrier film. I used Micro Sol and Set after which it was sealed in with clear gloss.
Installing the engine.
In step 39, following reference photographs, part 66H and part 69H x 6 is painted Tamiya X-18 Semi-Gloss Black and not Metal Gloss Brass as directed in the instructions.
Very little carrier film on the decals. I shortened the decals by approximately 6mm to fit the Ø3mm grey pipe x 8. The decals laid down well and have very little carrier film. I used Micro Sol and Set after which it was sealed in with clear gloss.
In general, the painting instructions were followed. The places where the hoses connected however were painted in a copper colour as suggested by the reference photographs. Inspired by the reference photograph, I dry brushed the protruding “FIAT” monogram. The supplied stencil was used to spray painted the “FIAT” logo.
Subassemblies painted, in Tamiya X-1 Black Gloss and ready to install..
Step 52: Cut part 14B as indicated.
Part 47 required fabricating a nub that fits into part 142E.
The outside rim of the steering wheel, part 89F was painted in Tamiya X-1 Black Gloss, the spokes in Ammo by Mig A.MIG-0192 Polished Metal, with the nut in A.MIG-197 Metal Acrylic Color – Brass.
Assembly of the manifold, exhaust, bonnet panels and bonnet straps.
I snipped off the location tabs on the manifold, 125E to ensure a better fit with 127E.
The manifold, part 125E and 127E was painted in Mr. Surfacer and the tailpipe, part 121E and 144E in in Semi-Gloss Black to match the reference photographs.
Two-part epoxy was used to glue the rope to the exhaust pipe assembly.
The two parts of the engine bonnet, 301M and 302M was painted using Mr. COLOR, No 158 Super Italian Red. Large parts of access plastic were removed that supported the part’s structure before the parts are installed. The best way to remove the plastic is by using a scalpel and by making repeated light passes until eventually the plastic comes free.
The bonnet straps were made up using the canvas material supplied and the clasps 112G x 4, 97F x 2 and 98F was painted Ammo by Mig A.MIG-0192 Polished Metal. The straps were made up according to the measurements given. Instead of sewing the folded back canvas straps, I used glue to keep it all together.
Installing the exhaust, attaching the grab handles on the engine bonnet, install the bonnet parts using the rods provided, and brake line.
The bonnet grab handles, part 111G x 4 was painted in Ammo by Mig A.MIG-0192 Polished Metal.
I shortened the brake line between part 30C and 102F from 87mm to 73mm to make it more realistic.
Part 102F was very brittle and broke. This part was replaced with a scratch build version.
Building up the “sandwiches” for the drive chains.
All those welding points as well as cleaning up points led me in assembling the drive chains led me to explore alternatives. The closest that I could find was Tamiya’s Assembly Chain Set for 1/6 Scale Motorcycle, part number 12674.
The parts are well packed.
Pre-coloured sprues. The four colours are black, red, grey, steel, copper and silver chrome.
Can be built in sub-units, Chassis/coachwork, Engine, Bits and bobs.
Because of the kit's multi-media nature, I would recommend it for experienced builders.
Not a shake and bake kit. Every single part needed cleaning up.
Double check the drawings in the instructions for where you should cut parts off and before committing to glue. Dry fit before you commit to glue.
Do not be intimidated by the complexity. Study each stage in detail and you will gradually be able to build up each sub-assembly. I followed the construction sequence as indicated in the instruction manual.
Some of the subassemblies (the shock absorbers in particular) is made up from parts that appears to be similar, but are not. I used a storage case with compartments to keep the parts organized.
Few errors on the instructions:
Step 5: The leave springs should be changed 180° and swopped around. If not, the mistake will become apparent in step 6 when you try to join the front suspension to the chassis.
Step 22: Part 133F should read part 133E. On the colour callout it is supposed to be painted E, Flat wood. My reference photos showed the switch to be black.
Step 22: The type "C" tube (Ø0.7mm transparent) which attach to part 58C has been swopped out for the type "D" tube (Ø0.6mm black).
Step 30 and 33: There is no callout for part 107G x 4, 108G and 110G, the parts were painted Flat Steel identified on the colour chart as "D".
Step 35: Looking at the reference pictures, the plug wires seem to be black and not yellow. I substituted the kit supplied wire and tubes with Tamiya Detail-Up parts cable Ø0.65mm and the type "D" tube with Ø0.6mm black tube for connectors.
Step 39: Looking at refence pictures, part 66H and part 69H x 6 should be painted Semi-Gloss Black rather than Brass. Part 77H should be painted Copper rather than Metal Gloss Brass.
Step 44: Part 65H and 68H should be painted "L" copper and not "B" Brass. Part 139E should be painted Semi-Gloss Black rather than Flat Black.
Step 59: Shorten the brake line between part 30C and 102F from 87mm to 73mm to make it more realistic.
Step 63: Shorten the brake line between part 102F and 102F from 87mm to 73mm to make it more realistic.
Positive
Following the instructions, the complexity of tasks gradually increase.
Minimal flash on very few parts. There are though large sprue gates.
Good building reports on ScaleMates.
Lots of reference photos and videos available online.
Parts clearly marked.
The packaging of the sprue trees, body panels are very good and prevent damage.
The screws, pipes, wires, springs, etc came in a very nice compartmentalised container clearly marked and is a nice touch.
No serious fit issues.
The nuts and bolts allow for adjustments with regards to parts.
This model offers a balance for modellers to satisfy the builders and painters.
Negative
Very thick and long sprue gates (up to 50mm) and access plastic on body panels. It resembles pour stubs. Use a scalpel to repeatedly scours the line between the access plastic and the part.
Every part need work, cleaning up seamlines, ejection marks.
Not enough material provided (tubing and copper wire) to fulfil tasks. I bought Tamiya upgrade material.
Installing the oil and fuel pipes on the engine are not clear from the instructions. Fortunately, there are many reference photographs available online.
The ignition wiring and drive chains.
