Pagani Zonda C12S (Job Log)

Rivets around the headlamps were removed and holes were drilled for detail-up. 

Sanded. 

Washed. 

The bottom plate is twisted.
Kits that have been stored for a long time and are full of contents are recommended to be checked before assembly. (ex: Revell kits) 

Painted black surfacer. (Gaianotes) 

The surfacer in the unsanded areas fell off powerlessly. 

Just in case, I sanded all the places where the surfacer fell off while attaching and removing the tape on the other parts. 

This time, the etching parts also need to be painted, so I painted with Vallejo Mecha Primer (black). 

If the plated wheel is painted black from the inside, the spokes will look thinner and more edge. 

L: Silver
R: Flat Aluminium 

IPP Super Gold. 

Mirror-like plated parts. However, due to the gate marks, I sanded it down and then applied Vallejo Gloss Black Primer. 

And... Painted chrome. 

The gate marks on the lightly plated parts were sanded and then painted with normal silver. 

I painted the carbon pattern using stockings. 

 

I mixed it to paint it a very pale yellowish silver color.
The left, which I first mixed, was more yellow than expected, so I mixed one more with Tamiya's titanium silver as a base.(Arrow) 

Done. 

Clear coated. 

Clear coated to carbon pattern parts too.
If the carbon pattern is coated with glossy clear, the pattern becomes clearer. 

Vallejo Mecha Primer(Sand).
You don't have to worry about the color development of the primer because you're going to paint a paint with good shielding power on top of it anyway. 

For the red leather color, Gaianots Oxide Surfacer was used. 

Sanded. 

Washed. 

Polished. 

The compound I used this time.
For finishing, we recommend the ceramic compound on the right. 

Removed the masking tape. 

painted with a hand brush. (Vallejo) 

Applied decal. 

Ready to assemble. 

Assembly starts with the engine. 

Detail-up with PE included in optional parts. 

Assembled engine. 

The interior was also assembled and placed on the lower plate along with the engine. 

Another photo one. 

Another photo one. 

The inside of the tail lamp was painted with a chrome marker. 

Assembled the tail lamp and exhaust.
The tail lamps are all divided by color, so it was very easy to assemble.
 

The rear parts were also attached to the lower plate, and the wheel axle parts were also attached to the front. 

Just following to the manual... 

I roughly restored the thing that I missed and fell into the plate where I put the ROCTITE. 

The windshield and dashboard were attached to the frame.
The marked part seems to be a fuel tank, but about 60 liters?
Considering the fuel economy of this car, I think 60 liters is small. 

Cockpit done. 

It is good to coat the parts attached from the inside of the hood with wood glue so that they do not fall off after assembly. 

For the rear hood, etching parts must be attached, but since there is no separate guide mold for the attachment location, it must be attached carefully with Loctite.
After attaching it, lightly coat it with wood glue to make it stick more firmly. 

Assembled the door.
It's thick and has a lot of detail, so it seems like there are a lot of parts, but it's made up of three pieces. 

It's a little tricky to assemble because one of the wing's pillars is divided.
The lip spoiler was surprisingly easy to attach. 

A metal sticker included in the optional parts was applied. 

There are no guides or indications for the location or angle of side mirror attachment, so you have to rely on your senses and attach them with a well-balanced left and right. 😠 

The front and rear hoods can be assembled with a choice of open or closed.
They designed it so well, I don't understand why they didn't add door hinges. 

It felt like the producers were passionately designing molds, but eventually gave up due to running out of stamina. 

I don't like open gimmicks anyway, so I'll cover them all, but I applied glue for temporary fixing to the necessary parts to harden them so that they don't completely fix.
The green glue shown in the back is water-based and retains moisture even after completely hardening, so you can attach and detach the parts. 

Finished. 

Finished. 

I should have detailed-up the rivets around the headlamps, but I forgot, so I worked on it belatedly. 😉
All done. Thanks for watching~