Fiat 806 Grand Prix 1927

1
December 4, 2022
Sprues checked and marked.
2
January 4, 2023
All the parts isolated required to build up the chassis. All parts have been cleaned up, sink marks filled, chrome stripped and all colours painted.
3
January 4, 2023
After filling the sink marks the parts were primed using Mr. Surfacer 1000 (White).
All the parts came in black plastic, but was painted up using Humbrol 21 Gloss Black.
Build up sub-assemblies A and B.
Incorporate the sub-assemblies A and B in the chassis.
Using a nut provided, nut 02, thread with caution the indicated pieces 9B, 10B.
4
January 4, 2023
The instructions are not clear here, but before assembling the chassis’ frame, I tied the copper wire through the holes as instructed. I used a toothpick as a spacer.
5
January 4, 2023
The reverse side where I twisted the wire.
6
January 4, 2023
The parts. I ended up twisting off the end of part 10B when trying to thread the end.
7
January 5, 2023
8
January 5, 2023
After assembling Part 5A to 8A and 6A to 7A, the mated surfaces were levelled using a file. There were very noticeable steps.
After filling the sink marks, the parts were primed using Mr. Surfacer 1000 (White).
All the parts came in black plastic, but was painted up using Humbrol 21 Gloss Black.
The floor pan 1G was primed with Mr Surfacer 1000 (White), painted red Mr. Color 327 Red FG111G6, wet sanded with 1500 grit. When I was satisfied, I painted the panels with Tamiya X-27 Clear Red. Again, I wet sanded the coats until I was happy with the finish. The part was finally sealed in with Humbrol Clear Gloss Varnish. Finally, the part was polished up using Tamiya’s three-part Polishing Compound.
9
January 5, 2023
10
January 5, 2023
11
January 5, 2023
Primed 1PE with Tamiya Metal Primer and painted with Tamiya XF-57 Buff. When dry used oils to create a woodgrain. After drying sealed in with Humbrol Clear Gloss Varnish.
I stripped the chrome paint off 18E, filled the ejection pin marks with Mr. Surfacer 500. When dry painted the part gloss black with Humbrol 21 Black. The entire part was then covered using Tamiya TS-17 Gloss Alluminum.
I stripped the chrome paint off 33E and painted the part gloss black with Humbrol 21 Black. Unsightly ejection marks on the floor (18e). Filled with Mr. Surfacer 500 and then sanded. The entire part was then covered using Tamiya TS-17 Gloss Alluminum.
Paint 53E, 106D, and the cap of 33E AMMO MIG A.MIG-0190 Old Brass.
Cut 2 x 4mm pieces of the pipe marked as the A type Ø 4.2mm and slip the two pieces onto 33E. Cut and secure with 4 x 30mm brass wire. Secure each pipe with two pieces brass wire marked as the E type Ø 0.5mm. The twisted ends are turned inwards.
12
January 5, 2023
13
January 5, 2023
The sink marks are less visible.
14
January 5, 2023
15
January 5, 2023
Clean up the leaf spring hangers, part 34B x 4, belly plate part 3A and stabilisers, part 108D and 109D and paint with Humbrol 21 Black.
Care should be taken to ensure the screw securing the floor, part 18E to the floor pan, part 1G actually enter in the designated hole.
Part 3A, 108D and 109D finally secure and draw together the two chassis members Part 1A and 2A.
16
January 5, 2023
17
January 5, 2023
18
January 5, 2023
19
January 5, 2023
Parts 25B, 35B were glued together. There are no locating tabs. The seamline was filed level. The same for part 6B and 24B. Caution, the attachment for piping on back axle very flimsy. Thread the ends of part 24B using with caution as indicated using a nut, part 04.
The parts making up the shock absorbers, part 1F x 8, part 128D were cleaned up for painting.
On the leaf springs, part 20B, 21B x 2 and 23B were cleaned up for painting.
All the aforementioned parts were all painted with Humbrol 21 Black.
The leaf springs, part 2F x 2 and the stars part 129D x 2 was painted with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer.
I suggest that the leaf springs are attached first followed by the shock absorbers.
20
January 5, 2023
21
January 6, 2023
22
January 6, 2023
Attaching the axel assembly to the chassis is straightforward. I started from the front on the leaf spring, both sides, followed by the shock absorbers with rubber bushing sandwiched between the two leaves and finally the back part of the leaf springs.
The nuts and bolts allow for adjusting the assembly.
Part 10B which was damaged when I threaded the end can now, after being adjusted repaired by attaching the nut with epoxy.
The rubber sheath part 3K is press fit to part 25B.
23
January 6, 2023
24
January 6, 2023
25
January 6, 2023
26
January 6, 2023
Five parts makes up each rim. From the inside out part 311P, 312P, the hub 310P, 309P and 308P. Clean the five parts of and clean them up and with paint each part with Humbrol 21 Black.
The moulded lettering was removed easily with 400 grit sandpaper. Also clean up the inside of the tire where it will touch the rim with 400 grit sandpaper.
Building up the rims, I fed through the centre of part 311, the two inner holes, the two longer screws as required. The rest of the parts fed onto the two screws. Finally, the outside rim was secured with four smaller screws.
After each rim has been checked, the tires are mounted.
In an effort to lay down the decal symmetrical (four decals per tire do not make it easy), I stared at 12 o’clock and laid down “Cord”, followed laying down “Pirelli” at 6 o’clock and so forth. The decals laid down perfectly. I painted the outside wall on which the decals were placed with Micro-Sol. Finally, the decals itself was painted with Tamiya XF-86 Flat Clear to tone down the sheen of the decals itself.
There is very little carrier film on the decals.
27
January 6, 2023
28
January 6, 2023
On the left tire is the mouldings that the builder is instructed to remove. The tires on the right shows the completed work.
29
January 6, 2023
30
January 6, 2023
31
January 6, 2023
Part 130D and 131D were cleaned up and painted with Humbrol 21 Gloss Black.
I used the provided paint mask and applied Tamiya X-2 White on part 30D. Because of the nature of part 30D (it is a grill) repair work on the number can easily be done using a toothpick.
Press part 132D and 133D together and sand the joints to get a half decent fit. I painted the outside of the radiator with Ammo Metal Acrylic Color A MIG-0197 Brass and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer.
After triple checking the orientation of part 130D and 131D it was glued into first part 133D and then 132D. Ensure that part 131D is orientated the right way round correct because a hose from the engine will be attached later on at the left-hand bottom corner. There is a very prominent seam between Part 132D and 133D that need attention.
The whole assembly was sealed in with Humbrol Clear Gloss Varnish and left to dry.
32
January 6, 2023
33
January 12, 2023
34
January 12, 2023
Remove the parts indicated and after cleaning up were painted with Humbrol 21 Gloss Black.
Assembling the shockabsorber assemblies. Care should be taken that it is assembled in such a way as to the opening through which the brake lines will be fed is pointing to the rear.
I suggest to first slip the shockabsorber assemblies over the axel before securing part 1B and 2B.
The assembly secuence were followed as suggested in the instruction booklet. The drawings were constantly consulted. Double check the inclination/angle required of part 1B and 2B.
35
January 12, 2023
36
January 12, 2023
37
January 12, 2023
The radiator housing, 7G was primed with Mr Surfacer 1000 (White), painted red Mr. Color 327 Red FG111G6, wet sanded with 1500 grit. When I was satisfied, I painted the panels with Tamiya X-27 Clear Red. Again, I wet sanded the coats until I was happy with the finish. The part was sealed in with Humbrol Clear Gloss Varnish. Finally, the part was polished up using Tamiya’s three-part Polishing Compound.
The radiator assembled in step 20 are secured inside part 7G as shown. First threat the four attachment points before inserting and securing the radiator.
Take part 31E and paint the outside frame inside and out with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer. Leave to dry and paint the grill with Humbrol 21 Gloss Black. Leave to dry and secure on the front part of the radiator and inside 7G as instructed. 31E press fit into 7G.
Secure the whole assembly to the chassis.
38
January 12, 2023
39
January 12, 2023
40
January 12, 2023
41
January 12, 2023
42
January 12, 2023
Take the leave springs, part 3F x 2 and paint with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer. Leave to dry.
The smaller parts required to secure the leave springs, part 32B, 33B, 137D x 2, 136D x 2 were cleaned up and painted with Humbrol 21 Gloss Black. Leave to dry.
First secure the leave springs. Make sure the part 32B and 33B is orientated as shown. Finally secure the suspension that were completed in step 21.
The rubber bushes, 6K were inserted first and therewith allowed the shock absorbers to be attached working from the front left and right working towards to back.
43
January 12, 2023
44
January 12, 2023
45
January 12, 2023
46
January 12, 2023
47
January 12, 2023
The location pins assembling the fuel tank, part 20E and 21E were slightly off line. I suggest cutting the pins off for better alignment. The seamline between the two halves needed attention. Because the location tabs were slightly offline, the location hole for the cap of the fuel tank needed work to file into a round shape. The assembly was painted with Tamiya TS-17 Gloss Aluminium and left to dry.
The brake linkage, part 138D x 2 and brake drums, part 139D x 2 were painted with Humbrol 21 Gloss Black and leave to dry.
Cut two 130mm lengths of part Spring 33 and attach as indicated to the dish side of part 139D x 2. Set aside. In retrospect, I would suggest that this cables are extended from 130mm to 150mm which will be astatically more pleasing.
Cut two 62mm lengths of part Spring 33 and attach as indicated to the dish side of part 138D x 2. Set aside.
Attach the fuel line, transparent PVC pipe Ø1.5mm to the fuel tank. Set aside.
48
January 12, 2023
49
January 12, 2023
50
January 13, 2023
Clean up the parts where the brake lines will be attached, part 141D and 142D. Paint he parts with Humbrol 21 Gloss Black and leave to dry. Clean up the adjustment hand adjustment screws part 143D x 4 and paint with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer. Leave to dry. Assemble as indicated.
Clean up the handbrake, part 29B and paint with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer. Leave to dry. Assemble as indicated. Paint the handgrip on the handbrake with Tamiya XF-85 Rubber Black.
Complete the brake line assemblies by attaching the sub-assemblies made in step 25 and attach it to part 141D and 142D. Attach the brake linkage, part 138D x 2 to the back axel. Insert the handbrake, part 29B and make sure that the teeth intermesh with the teeth on part 141D. The brake cables coming from the front towards where the handbrake is located must first be fed through the wire loops that were made in step 1.
Clean the tie rod, part 17B up and paint with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer. Leave to dry. Attach as indicated.
Take the fuel tank which was assembled in step 24 and feed the PVC pipe underneath the floor towards the engine bay. Secure the fuel tank as shown in the instruction booklet.
The engine bonnet’s side panels, 2G and 3G was primed with Mr Surfacer 1000 (White), painted red Mr. Color 327 Red FG111G6, wet sanded with 1500 grit. When I was satisfied, I painted the panels with Tamiya X-27 Clear Red. Again, I wet sanded the coats until I was happy with the finish. The parts were sealed in with Humbrol Clear Gloss Varnish. Finally, the parts were polished up using Tamiya’s three-part Polishing Compound. Press fit these panels as indicated.
51
January 13, 2023
52
January 13, 2023
53
January 13, 2023
54
January 17, 2023
Attaching the front wheels is straight forward.
55
January 17, 2023
56
January 18, 2023
57
January 18, 2023
The dashboard, Part 19E was stripped and part 4PE, 5PE and 6PE were inserted in their dedicated locations and secured with epoxy. The PE parts were primed with Tamiya Metal Primer. The whole dashboard was painted with Tamiya TS-17 Gloss Aluminium and left to dry. When dry the cases of each guage was painted with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer. Leave to dry. Install the wiring using 3 x Ø1.5mm of different lengths as instructed.
The steering linkage part 16B and 28B and the crank handle part 19B were cleaned up and paint with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer. Leave to dry.
Take the crank handle and carefully slip over a 8mm lengths of Ø3mm grey PVC pipe as shown in the instructions.
Carefully store all the subassemblies for later instillation.
Attaching the back wheels is straight forward.
58
January 18, 2023
59
January 18, 2023
60
January 18, 2023
61
January 18, 2023
62
January 18, 2023
All the parts isolated required to build up the engine. All parts have been cleaned up, sink marks filled, chrome stripped and all colours painted.
63
January 18, 2023
Construction is straight forward. Because a single colour will be sprayed and good adhesion is required, a large subassembly was assembled. The gearbox 75C, 76C, 77C, 78C, 79C and 80C was assembled. And then attached to the engine block 72C, 73C and 81C. I also added 98C, 99C and 102C from step 10.
The cooling fins on the engine sump, 81C and gearbox 80C were marred with ejection marks and ejection stubs and needed to be cleaned up using a razor saw. A dab of liquid cement was used to clean it up.
I did nothing to address the sink marks on 98C and 99C because it will not be seen as soon as the cylinder heads have been installed.
Seamlines and ejection pin marks were addressed with Mr. Surfacer 500 and then sanded.
The main parts were painted in Ammo Metal Acrylic Color A.MIG-192 - Polished Metal.
The gear-lever, part 71E was painted with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer. The gear knob, part 110D was painted gloss black and the leather ball on the gear-leaver was picked out in Tamiya XF-64 Red Brown. After drying the gear-lever was inserted and secure with a 10mm spring as instructed.
64
January 18, 2023
65
January 18, 2023
66
January 18, 2023
67
January 18, 2023
The fuel pump’s assembly is straight forward. Part 74C, 82C and 83C have been painted in Ammo Metal Acrylic Color A.MIG-192 - Polished Metal.
The carburettor, Part 111D, 113D and 114D painted with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer. Leave to dry. I took the liberty of painting the filler cap on part 111D and part 112D with Metal Acrylic Color A.MIG-190 - Old Brass.
Part 69E was painted with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer.
68
January 18, 2023
69
January 18, 2023
70
January 18, 2023
71
January 18, 2023
72
January 18, 2023
Check the orientation of 90c-96c to 91c-97c according to the schematics. It must fit easily. Do not force it to fit. The same with 92c-95c to 93c-94c. Look at the protrusion at the end. Face forward. The headers and camshaft covers have been painted in Ammo Metal Acrylic Color A.MIG-192 - Polished Metal.
The tappet covers part 61E and 62E were painted with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer.
I had to remove the locating pins for the tappet covers to allow for a square attachment. Again, make sure the part where the exhaust manifold will be attached is facing outward. I had to double check the schematics in both step 09 and 10 to make sure that parts are orientated in the right direction.
73
January 18, 2023
74
January 18, 2023
75
January 18, 2023
The manifolds, part 22E, 23E, 24E an 25E were cleaned up and painted with Ammo Metal Acrylic Color A.MIG- 0187 Metal Acrylic Color Jet Exhaust Burnt Iron.
The manifolds were assembled and glued to the cylinder heads which were assembled in step 9, before being attached to the engine block. I first glued 23E and 24E to the cylinder heads, slipped on the 2 x 9mm lengths of Ø4.2mm black PVC pipes as shown in the instructions and then glued 22E and 25E into place. I slipped on the 2 x 4mm lengths of Ø4.2mm black PVC pipes as shown in the instructions on to the stubs of 102C. I used part 30E to hold the cylinder heads together until the glue dries.
Take the fuel pump that was assembled in step 8 and attach as shown.
The accelerator, part 66E and linkage part 46E are painted with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer. Installing the parts are first part 66E followed by part 46E.
76
January 18, 2023
77
January 18, 2023
78
January 18, 2023
79
January 18, 2023
Part 63E and part 84C are painted with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer. The filler cap on 84C was detailed with Metal Acrylic Color A.MIG-190 - Old Brass.
Part 85C and 86C was painted with Metal Acrylic Color A.MIG-190 - Old Brass.
88C and 87C Polished Metal. Details on 87C were picked out with Humbrol 21 Gloss Black. I slipped on the 2 x 8mm lengths of Ø1.5mm black PVC pipes and 1 x 4mm of Ø3mm grey PVC pipe as shown in the instructions on to the stubs of 87C.
80
January 18, 2023
81
January 18, 2023
82
January 18, 2023
83
January 18, 2023
84
January 18, 2023
85
January 18, 2023
86
January 18, 2023
87
January 19, 2023
Clean part 26E, 27E and 44E up and paint with Ammo Metal Acrylic Color A MIG-0197 Brass and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer.
Part 115D is painted with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer. The front end was detailed with Metal Acrylic Color A.MIG-190 - Old Brass. Leave to dry and glue to part 44E. Slip on 2 x 8mm lengths of Ø3mm grey PVC pipe as shown in the instructions on to the stubs of 26E and 27E.
Clean part 103C up and paint with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer and leave to dry. Pick out certain details with Ammo Metal Acrylic Color A MIG-0197 Brass and with Metal Acrylic Color A.MIG-190 - Old Brass. Slip on 1 x 90mm length of Ø1.5mm black PVC pipe and 1 x 14mm length of Ø1.5mm black PVC pipe on the indicated positions of part 103C. Attach to the engine as indicated.
Clean part 118D up and paint with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer and leave to dry. Attach the 12mm spring before attaching the part to the engine.
Clean up the pedals part 116D and 117E as instructed and paint with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 after which sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer and leave to dry. Attach as instructed.
88
January 19, 2023
89
January 19, 2023
90
January 19, 2023
91
January 19, 2023
92
January 19, 2023
93
January 19, 2023
94
January 22, 2023
Clean up parts 57E, 58E and glue to each other. Clean up parts 59E, 60E, 68E and 70E and assemble as indicated. Glue the sub-assembly to the face of part 57E followed by part 67E. Paint the assembly with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer. Add part 119D and 120D as indicated Certain details was detailed with Metal Acrylic Color A.MIG-190 - Old Brass and Ammo Metal Acrylic Color A MIG-0197 Brass. Leave to dry.
Glue parts 28E, 29E and 32E to each other and leave to dry properly. The holes on parts 28E and 29E must be turned inwards towards where it will be attached to the engine.. When properly dry, paint the assembly with Ammo Metal Acrylic Color A MIG-0197 Brass and pick out details on part 32E with Metal Acrylic Color A.MIG-190 - Old Brass. Leave to dry.
Slip the Part 32E assembly behind the PVC pipe at the front of part 103C linked to part 87C. Secure to the engine as indicated. This requires some care.
Secure the part 57E assembly into the slot on the gearbox as indicated and glue to the camshaft covers.
95
January 22, 2023
96
January 22, 2023
97
February 3, 2023
Clean up the magneto shafts, parts 34E and 35E and paint with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer. Leave to dry.
Clean up part 121D and paint gloss black.
Clean up the magnetos, part 100C and 101C and paint in Ammo Metal Acrylic Color A.MIG-192 - Polished Metal.
Slip parts 4K and 5K onto part 67E as indicated.
Secure part 121D to the gearbox by securing with the bolts going through the cut-outs, place the washers on the top and secure with nut 4, not nut 2 as called out.
Add to the magnetos, part 100C and 101C the rubber parts 6K and 7K at its back followed by the magneto shafts, parts 34E and 35E. Insert the magneto assemblies in the slots in part 121D. Use a tweezer to guide the shafts into the rubber parts 4K and 5K.
The plug wires parts 1K and 2K, can now be attached onto the faces of the magnetos part 100C and 101C. Insert the plug wires into the moulded plugs starting with the shortest wire onto the closest plug working towards the front.
98
February 3, 2023
99
February 3, 2023
100
February 3, 2023
101
February 3, 2023
Start from the top and clean up the steering wheel, part 9A, the star, part 4F and the steering knob, part 122D. Though it is recommended that part 4F is paint chrome, I opted to paint the star the same colour as the body, red Mr. Color 327 Red FG111G6.
Clean up and assemble the steering mechanism part 26B, 11B and 12B, steering shaft, part 27B and 123D. Note that there is a very bad placed sprue gate on the gearhead, part 26B. This needs careful removing from the sprue and cleaning up to maintain free rotation inside parts 11B and 12B. Paint the whole assembly, including part 54E and 64E with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178.
Clean up the part 124D and paint gloss black together with the steering wheel knob, part 122D.
The assembly sequence followed: 1) Assemble the steering wheel part 9A, 4F and 122D. Wrap the steering wheel. 2) Before inserting part 27B into the steering box, insert part 27B through part 124D. Complete the assembly as directed. 3) Carefully slip the transparent part 1CF over part 123D and secure the steering wheel into place as directed. 4) Place part 54E on part 4F and carefully glue part 1CF to part 54E from the back.
102
February 3, 2023
103
February 3, 2023
104
February 3, 2023
105
February 4, 2023
Clean up parts 125D, 126D and 127D and paint with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178.
Assembly sequence: 1) Insert a screw 8 through the attachment point and secure the steering box to the engine. 2) Assemble the number 2 screws, each with two washers each, topped off with number 4 nuts and slip thee screws into slits part 124D. Then lever the screws into the slots in part 121D. Secure. 3) Insert part 127D into part 125D, 67E and hook up to the protrusion on part 124D. 4) Hook part 126D onto the opposite side of part 124D and glue to part 125D.
106
February 4, 2023
107
February 4, 2023
108
February 4, 2023
109
February 4, 2023
110
February 4, 2023
111
February 4, 2023
112
February 4, 2023
113
February 4, 2023
114
February 4, 2023
Shoehorn the engine in, starting with the front and finally settle in the back part. Line up the engine mountings at the back. Secure with no11 screws. Be mindful where the starter crank will fit through the radiator.
I started at the back and secured part 3K between the prop shaft, part 25B and the gearbox, part 79C. Then secured part 104D into the right opening on part 66E.
In placing the tube E, I had to remove a stabiliser, part 108D to secure the tube from the bottom to the floor, part 18E and the engine block, part73C. I retrospect it might have been easier to first secure the tube to the floor, part 18E before shoehorning in the engine.
Insert tube D into the floor, part 18E, feed across the gearbox and insert into the engine block, part 72C.
Moving forward. I inserted the bottom water pipe from the bottom between the water pump, part 115D and the radiator, part 131D. The top waterpipe, part 1K is the last to be inserted between part 30E and 132D. Part 1K seems to be on the short side.
Insert the no14 screw to secure the front engine mountings.
115
February 4, 2023
116
February 4, 2023
117
February 4, 2023
118
February 4, 2023
119
February 4, 2023
120
February 4, 2023
121
February 4, 2023
122
February 4, 2023
123
April 12, 2023
The outside of engine bonnet’s panels, H2 and H3 was primed with Mr Surfacer 1000 (White), painted red Mr. Color 327 Red FG111G6, wet sanded with 1500 grit. When I was satisfied, I painted the panels with Tamiya X-27 Clear Red. Again, I wet sanded the coats until I was happy with the finish. The parts were sealed in with Humbrol Clear Gloss Varnish. Finally, the parts were polished up using Tamiya’s three-part Polishing Compound.
The inside of engine bonnet’s panels, H2 and H3 was painted with Tamiya TS-17 Gloss Aluminium and left to dry.
Adding the racing numbers, you are given the choice between stencils and spray the numbers on, or decals. I opted for the decals because the stencils did not want to stick to the polished surface. With the help of Micro Set and Sol the decals settled well.
Clean up parts 36E, 37E, 38E and 39E and paint with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178. Cut 2 x 8mm lengths and 2 x 13mm lengths of spring as instructed to secure the bonnet.
The seat’s fairing, 6G was primed with Mr Surfacer 1000 (White), painted red Mr. Color 327 Red FG111G6, wet sanded with 1500 grit. When I was satisfied, I painted the panels with Tamiya X-27 Clear Red. Again, I wet sanded the coats until I was happy with the finish. The parts were sealed in with Humbrol Clear Gloss Varnish. Finally, the parts were polished up using Tamiya’s three-part Polishing Compound.
Clean up part 00K, the seat and attach the seat to fairing using parts 5E, 47E, 48E, 49E and 50E. The holes on the seat have already been pre-cut by the manufacturer.
124
April 12, 2023
125
April 12, 2023
The body panels, G1, and G4 was primed with Mr Surfacer 1000 (White), painted red Mr. Color 327 Red FG111G6, wet sanded with 1500 grit. When I was satisfied, I painted the panels with Tamiya X-27 Clear Red. Again, I wet sanded the coats until I was happy with the finish. The parts were secured using a screw as directed as well as two-part clear epoxy. The decals were then applied with the use of Micro Set and Sol and settled down very well. The parts were sealed in with Humbrol Clear Gloss Varnish. Finally, the parts were polished up using Tamiya’s three-part Polishing Compound.
Glue the instrument panel (that was build in step 28) into position after the three cables have been fed through the hole in the body. I marked the individual strands.
The exhaust pipes, parts 144D and 145D was cleaned up and the exhaust ends, parts 146D x 2 was attached. I hollowed out the ends. The centers of the exhaust were wrapped to simulate the asbestos tape which is seen in reference photos. The tape was weathered after which the pipes were painted with Tamiya X-18 Semi-Gloss Black.
Assembling the windscreen, it was noticed that the clear part, part 2CF is too narrow. A replacement was cut from clear plastic and glued into place.
Given the choice between part 56E and 2PE with the exhaust guard, I chose the plastic part, 56E which I painted up using Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178. The PE part’s location nubs do not match the holes in the body.
126
April 12, 2023
127
April 14, 2023
128
April 14, 2023
129
May 17, 2023
To secure the bodyshell to the chassis with screws as directed, the rear wheels had to be removed again as well as the back shock absorbers had to be partially removed.
Fitting the steering rod that was assembled in step 28 is very finicky and require care. It fit a specific way in the cut-out in the steering box.
Securing the bonnet panels was straight forward.
Fitting the fuel cap, part 45E after being with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 went on without challenge.
I stippled the manifolds, 148D and 149D with Mr. Surfacer 500 to recreate texture. When dry, I painted the two parts with Tamiya X-18 Semi-Gloss Black.
I then secured the tubes coming from behind the instrument cluster to its places on the engine using a tweezer.
Next, I slipped the photo etched parts 3PE over the ends of the 144D and 145D after I have bend them into shape. The manifolds were glue into place and the two photo etched parts were used to dry them at the right height. The manifold exhaust stubs closest to the firewall is too short when trying to line-up with the exhaust pipes.
The fuel cap, part 45E and the radiator cap, part 150D went on without a hitch after being painted with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178. The crank handle does not line up with the engine.
Modify the rubber seat, part 00K as indicated in step 30, otherwise the prop shaft will interfere with the fit.
130
May 17, 2023
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Kommentit

151 4 December 2022, 18:40

Jv
Looking forward to see what the kit is like
Seen the model in the shops for sometime

4 December 2022, 20:22

Villiers de Vos
My impressions so far:
Lots of seamlines;
Some sink marks;
Clear instructions;
Parts clearly marked;
Parts fit not perfect, but not challenging. 🙂

9 December 2022, 05:47

Robert Podkoński
Watching with pleasure!

9 December 2022, 05:48

Tini Hendriks
Huge!

22 December 2022, 09:50

Villiers de Vos
I plan to build this car as sub-assemblies (chassis, engine and body/coachwork.
I have spend some time getting all the parts off that the chassis comprise of, stripped off the chrome of the specific parts and painted everything. While working on and painting the floor pan and radiator cover, I also painted the rest of the body panels.
That being said, lets build the chassis.

4 January 2023, 16:55

Villiers de Vos
I used Tamiya Paint stripper. One of my wife's silk stockings to strain the small parts out and recovered most of the liquid. Beware, it stinks!

4 January 2023, 17:32

Villiers de Vos
Thank you Benjamin, I will keep my eyes open. This seems like I saddled a wild horse here.

4 January 2023, 19:46

Kyle DeHart
One I have long wanted to build, but price and availability make it so hard. Not sure how I missed the beginning of this but I can't wait to see where you take it

4 January 2023, 22:36

Kyle DeHart
Chassis looks nice!

5 January 2023, 21:32

Mona
if anyone can tame this horse you can Villiers 👍

5 January 2023, 22:36

Villiers de Vos
Thank you for the words of encouragement Kyle and Mona.
I hope to give an honest and clear report. You may call me a glutton for punishment because I have another model from this manufacturer in my stash 🙂

6 January 2023, 04:15

Kyle DeHart
I hope it's another 1/12 scale classic race car Villiers but that's just me being selfish. 😂. I'll be here every step of the way.

6 January 2023, 04:50

Villiers de Vos
Kyle, it is the Fiat Mefistofele in 1:12. I love the classic cars and 1:12 is my favourite scale.

6 January 2023, 06:16

Kyle DeHart
Excellent!! The Mefistofele is maybe my favorite one. Love the look of that car. A somewhat local shop to me even has one on the shelf but for a price even higher than eBay! Lol. So, for now, I will live vicariously through others. Your 806 is looking really nice so far!!

6 January 2023, 11:55

bughunter
Not my scale, but I need to follow the nice builds by Villiers 👍

6 January 2023, 12:04

Kyle DeHart
Man those wires are beautiful. And the grill. Great stuff.

6 January 2023, 21:11

Guy Rump
Looking good, following. 👍

6 January 2023, 22:37

Villiers de Vos
Thank you Kyle, Bughunter and Guy for your kind words.
I am nearly finished with the chassis and found the front suspension a challenging. The project is time consuming but also very rewarding at the same time.

7 January 2023, 06:46

Michael Kohl
Although six times too big for my regular appetite, you definitely watered my mouth with this build so far. Beautiful progress of a fast looking car.

7 January 2023, 07:31

Kyle DeHart
The first "modern" F1 car as we know them today. Low slung and Purpose built and with no riding mechanic. Fiats racing factory claimed it was capable of nearly 150 mph. A great subject to build a model of.

7 January 2023, 12:20

Villiers de Vos
I made some progress today. The construction work on the chassis will be completed within the next few days. The parts for the engine has also been cleaned up, build in sub-assemblies and painted up.

12 January 2023, 13:12

Kyle DeHart
The radiator and grille assembly look really fantastic. As does your chassis work.

12 January 2023, 19:17

Villiers de Vos
Thank you for your kind comments Kyle.
This starting to look like a car 🙂

13 January 2023, 15:12

Jv
Looking great sofare lots of work in that one

14 January 2023, 05:50

Villiers de Vos
Thank you Jv.

18 January 2023, 08:18

Vincent
Very impressive work until now. Can't wait to see where this is going.

18 January 2023, 08:45

Rui S
That is looking great 👍 I'M In 😎

18 January 2023, 22:47

Villiers de Vos
Thank you Vincent and Rui.

That ugly four letter word W-O-R-K kept on interfering with benchwork this past month 🙂

3 February 2023, 05:26

bughunter
Great work! 👍
I hope you never need the content of the bottle, which are visible in the background of pic 41 !

Regarding your ugly four letter word: From the inside, the hamster wheel looks like a career ladder 😉

3 February 2023, 14:10

Villiers de Vos
Thank you Frank. I hope to show that the content did not recede in follow-up pictures 🙂

The engine has now been married to the chassis. Inserting the flexible hose close to the gearbox had me muttering under my breath.... Only once or twice perhaps.....

4 February 2023, 16:56

Kyle DeHart
Looking great!!

4 February 2023, 17:38

Guy Rump
Looking really good Villiers. 👍

4 February 2023, 17:45

Rui S
Looking beautifull already 👍

4 February 2023, 18:53

Chris Vandegrift
This was such a cool era of racing. You're really making this look like it came forward in time!

8 February 2023, 04:03

Martin
Great work Villiers! it looks really good so far. Im quite surprised by the kit quality, or does it just looks good on the pictures?

8 February 2023, 10:21

Villiers de Vos
Kyle, Guy, Rui and Chris, thank you for your kind words.

Martin, every single part needs cleaning up. My effort is far form flawless.

8 February 2023, 15:53

Martin
Ok, so the quality is similar to all Italeri kits...

8 February 2023, 19:37

Denys Astakhov
Great work!

9 February 2023, 05:15

Rui S
That looks a complex kit. Great progress 👍

14 April 2023, 23:11

Jv
Fantastic work
Thanks for all the information and pics on this build
Very interesting

15 April 2023, 09:52

bughunter
Good to see new progress after a while 👍

15 April 2023, 11:23

Villiers de Vos
Thank you for your kind words. I lost count how many times I have stripped the paint on the body. The end is in sight. In polishing the body shell I accidently broke off the "needle " that holds down the bonnet panels.

16 April 2023, 16:30

Ian Doody
Nice step by step build, great looking car. Its on my wishlist.

17 April 2023, 11:10

CaptGPF
Very nice! Love the step by step photos and the details! And the wood grain looks amazing! I wonder how much of it will be visible when it's all put together. When I started this hobby, I would skip detailing hard to see parts in my kits, but have since started detailing everything…. I may have developed OCD because of this hobby….

17 April 2023, 15:08

Maurits van der Aa
Great build, my friend. Top notch!

18 April 2023, 00:14

Kerry COX
WOW. ! My juices are flowing mate. What an exciting trip . !
Your descriptive texts have de mystified a most complex and detailed kit. 👍
I was never much of a fan of the Italian model makers, but with this, I could get my mojo back. 🙂
Almost $300.00 here in Aus, but from how you have presented it. Fully worth every penny and the time it would take.
I am sold. 👍 🙂

28 April 2023, 08:25

Kyle DeHart
I agree completely Kerry. This build log has also really made me want to save my pennys so I can try to tackle this at some point.

28 April 2023, 08:53

Jennifer Franklin
Nice step-by-step build, which makes it easy to follow. I don't think I will try this anytime soon, I already want something a little easier for my second model 🙂. Beautiful work on your part.

4 May 2023, 20:28

Daniel Klink
Following! 👍

4 May 2023, 21:00

Villiers de Vos
Thank you Mates for your interest and positive remarks. I am calling this one finished. I am happy with the outcome although it is far from perfect. I left notes (my own thoughts) at the top of the project.

17 May 2023, 20:06

Jennifer Franklin
Looks good, a very nice end result.

17 May 2023, 20:22

Guy Rump
Excellent build, congrats! 👍

17 May 2023, 20:39

Rui S
Beautiful outcome. Great work 👍

17 May 2023, 22:18

Richie Williams
Stunning!

17 May 2023, 22:29

Kerry COX
Next will be of it in a display case with a Gold medal attached . 🙂 👍

17 May 2023, 22:37

Kyle DeHart
Really fantastic result!!

17 May 2023, 23:44

Jv
Agree whed kyle congratulations

18 May 2023, 00:27

Stéphane Jayet
Perfect result

18 May 2023, 00:53

Dave
That is a beautiful build. Nice job 👍

18 May 2023, 02:07

Robert Podkoński
Beautiful!

18 May 2023, 05:42

Ard S.
Fantastic. What a nice job you did

18 May 2023, 07:18

Vincent
Very nice result!!!

18 May 2023, 08:04

Michael Kohl
I like how it turned out. Beautiful car snd decent model.

18 May 2023, 11:03

Pietro De Angelis
WOW!

18 May 2023, 12:06

bughunter
Nice to see it finished! Great work 👍

18 May 2023, 15:31

Villiers de Vos
Thank you everybody for your kind words. It is very much appreciated.

18 May 2023, 16:34

Jean-Daniel Aebischer
Très beau travail, tu sais ces kits Italeri sont des reboîtages de Protar, une marque de maquettes très approximatives, il y a toujours beaucoup d'inexactitudes et donc de travail. Ce sont des modèles qui se méritent, Bravo. 👍

23 May 2023, 14:32

Spanjaard
Amazing build report and fantastic results. Wow

23 May 2023, 14:56

gorby
Oooohhhh, very, very nice!

23 May 2023, 14:56

Ben Rocke
this is OUTSTANDING !

23 May 2023, 15:06

Villiers de Vos
Thank you for everyone's kind remarks and likes. It is humbling.

23 May 2023, 15:17

Roberto Rocat
Wow. Beautiful FIAT!

25 May 2023, 17:40

Villiers de Vos
Thank you Roberto.

25 May 2023, 18:14

Neil
Blimey! What a build (and a great journey album) Villiers 🙂👍 👏

25 May 2023, 18:18

Mr James
Great building pics. A pleasure to watch. There's some lovely detailed painting going on in this build. 🙂

31 May 2023, 18:14

Villiers de Vos
Neil and James, thank you for your kind words.

1 June 2023, 15:17

Lawrence Landis
Very intricate work.

29 June 2023, 01:36

Wojtek G.
Wow!

1 July 2023, 09:57

Villiers de Vos
Lawrence and Wojtek G, thank you for your kind words. Yes, it is very intricate work. This model was a real challenge. To see it completed and not back in it's box is very gratifying 🙂

1 July 2023, 17:32

Randy Kriegel
Very nice build.

6 July 2023, 02:39

Ludvík Kružík
Villiers, you've done some honest modelling work on this model and it shows.
Your Fiat looks great! 👍

6 July 2023, 10:14

Villiers de Vos
Gentlemen, thank you for your kind words.

6 July 2023, 10:51

Richard Berrie
Wonderful work, and especially the way you share so much with the community. We really appreciate the hard work and dedication. Thank you.

11 July 2023, 16:31

Richard Berrie
I have the Alfa Romeo 8C 2300 Monza from Italeri in my lineup to start this year. I think your build will go a long way to help with mine.

11 July 2023, 16:33

Stephen Lesley
Absolutely stunning model. For some reason, the black wire wheels really set off the car. Makes it look so much more purposeful.

25 July 2023, 16:30

Villiers de Vos
Richard and Stephan, thank you for the time taken to comment and your kind words.

Richard, yes I also love the larger scale cars. I am happy to hear that you found this build report helpful. Two aspects of the Mefistofele that is now on the bench that I find is taxing on me is the engine wiring (which I finished) and the drive chain (in process). The end result makes it worthwhile. Italeri's offerings are not "shake and bake" kits 🙂

26 July 2023, 14:03

Anthony lfk
This is very detailed built chronology ! better than the manual itself ! Great workmanship sir ! Congrats !

13 November, 07:06

Villiers de Vos
Thank you Anthony. Much appreciated.

13 November, 18:04

Jan Peters
Another Beauty 😍

13 November, 18:07

Album info

The kit comes moulded in pre-coloured sprues. The four colours are black, red, grey and silver chrome. I chose to strip the chrome and re-painted the colours.
Can be built in sub-units, Engine, Chassis, Body.
Because of the kit's multi-media nature, I would recommend it for experienced builders.
Not a shake and bake kit. Every single part needed cleaning up.
Double check the drawings in the instructions to establish where you should cut parts off.
Double check the pictures in the instructions before you commit to glue.
Do not be intimidated by the complexity. Study each stage in detail and you will gradually be able to build up each sub-assembly.
Some of the subassemblies (the shock absorbers in particular) is made up from parts that appears to be similar, but are not. I used a storage case with compartments to keep the parts organized.
Few errors on the instructions:
•Step 12: The pipes attached to part 103C are Ø1.5mm black PVC pipe and not Ø3.2mm black PVC pipe as indicated.
•Step 14: Secure part 121D to the gearbox with two number 04 nuts and not number 02 nuts as indicated.
Step 31: Part 2CF is not wide enough. Replace with a windshield cut from clear sheet.
Use a magnetised screw driver to secure the screws.
Positive
No loose parts that broke off the sprues.
Instructions clear.
Nuts, bolts, screw and springs a nice touch.
Good building reports available on ScaleMates.
Few photoetch.
Parts clearly marked.
The packaging of the sprue trees, body panels are very good and prevent damage.
The nuts, bolts, screws, pipes, wires, springs, etc came in a very nice compartmentalised container clearly marked.
No serious fit issues. The PE option for the exhaust guard, 2PE does not fit the holes in the body. Part 2CF is not wide enough. Replace with a windshield cut from clear sheet.
The nuts and bolts allow for adjustments with regards to parts.
This model offers a balance for modellers to satisfy the builders and painters.
The choice for the numbers between decals and stencils is a nice touch.
Negative
Thick sprue gates, delicate parts brakes. Sprue gates on gearheads. Use razor saw. 127D; 54E, 46E.
Every part need work, cleaning up seamlines, ejection marks.
Even by pre-threading the indicating parts you risk wringing off the neck of the threaded parts.
This kit fought me every centimetre during the final assembly. Lining up the manifold with exhaust pipes cannot happen using the parts as is. The manifold pipe closest to the firewall have to be extended. The started crank handle does not line up through the openings in the radiator into the engine.

Fiat 806 Grand Prix

135 kuvien

1:12

valmistunut

No Tamiya Polishing Compound - Finish (Tamiya 87070)

No Tamiya Polishing Compound - Fine (Tamiya 87069)

No Tamiya Polishing Compound - Coarse (Tamiya 87068)

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