Santa Clara alias La Niña

Section 1: Vertical keel and frames
Parts required to complete this section 

Before placing the ribs in their particular slots, I thinned the stern part of the false keel to the thickness of approximately 1.5mm (see the bottom two pictures). Before starting the thinning process, a half-moon area was marked off on both the port and starboard sides (see the top two pictures). 

The false keel as seen from astern. 

The stern piece, part number 10 was first glued into place after the sprue attachment points were removed and sanded smooth. The false keel was clamped in an upright position and the part was left to dry over night in position. 

Part 03 to 09 (ribs) were cleaned up and holes were drilled, on both the port and starboard side of each rib, to accommodate wiring should I actually place lights in the model. This should not weaken the actual rib. 

Rib 06 to 09 were individually glued into position and clamped to dry at right angles using blocks of wood and clamps. 

Gluing rib 09 into position it was noted that it was a little loose fitting. I used this keel/hull holder to ensure that the rib dry at right angles.  

Part 02 to 10 glued into position. 

I dry fitted the main deck, secured the deck with elastic bands and inserted the masts. Everything was left to dry over night. 

Section 2: Main deck and bow and stern knightheads
Parts required to complete this section 

Parts 14, 15 and 16 cleaned up and glued into position. These parts are key to reinforce and form the hull. 

The decks of period ships have a distinct concave and convex camber. The concave camber is accurately depicted on the model, but no provision has been made to capture the convex part. In order to achieve this effect, I glued 4mm wide by 1mm thick planks on the false keel. When dry, the portions closest to the bow and stern will be filed to allow the deck to be glued flush with the actual false keel. 

To illustrate why I thought it necessary to change the shape of the main deck. 

After dry fitting the main deck and securing the part with elastic bands both the distinctive concave and convex shape can be clearly seen.  

Photograph A: While the main deck was secured, I marked at intervals where I plan to secure the main deck to the frame.
Photograph B: Drilling out the the places marked to prevent the wood from splitting.
Photograph C: I removed the main deck and applied white glue to where the false keel will make contact with the main deck. I then secure the deck with nails to the frame and applied more white glue on the edges of each frame. Because I have managed not only a concave, but a convex form in the main deck, I used more elastic bands to secure the deck in place and applied more glue to the areas between the false keel and the ribs.  

With a medium grain file, file down the gap in the frame 10 (see red line), for the width of frame 10 until it is at the same level as the main deck plate. 

Section 3: Modelling the hull and plating on the main deck
Parts required to complete this section. 

Proceed to round off the structure to remove any rough edges from the frames and strengths until a real curve is made and so that the hull can be suitably planked. Use a medium grain file and smooth off with a fine grain file. Use a plank placing it at different heights both on the bow and on the stern to ensure that it perfectly fits (makes maximum surface contact) with the curvature of the hull.